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Sheba:
Through the Desert in Search of the Legendary
Queen
by
Nicholas Clapp
Published
by Houghton Mifflin
372 pages,
200
Buy it
online
Three
thousand years ago, a dusky queen swept into the court of
King Solomon, and from that time to the present day, her
tale has been told and retold. Who was this queen? Did she
really exist? In a quixotic odyssey that takes him to
Ethiopia, Arabia, Israel and even a village in France,
Nicholas Clapp seeks the underlying truth behind the
multifaceted myth of the queen of Sheba.
It's an
eventful journey. In Israel, he learns of a living queen of
Sheba -- a pilgrim suffering from "Jerusalem Syndrome" --
and in Syria he tracks down the queen's tomb, as described
in the Arabian Nights. Clapp investigates the Ethiopian
shrine where Menelik, said to be the son of Solomon and the
mysterious queen, may have hidden the Ark of the Covenant.
The "worst train in the world" (according to the conductor)
takes Clapp to the Red Sea, where he sets sail for Yemen in
an ancient dhow and comes perilously close to being
shipwrecked.
As in his
search for the lost city of Ubar, Clapp uses satellite
images, this time to track an ancient caravan route that
leads to the queen's winter capital in present-day Yemen.
The quest is bolstered by new carbon-14 datings and by the
discovery of an Arabian Stonehenge in the sands of the Rub'
al-Khali. Finally, at the romantic and haunting ruins of
Sirwah, the pieces of the queen of Sheba puzzle fall into
place.


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The following is an excerpt from the
book
Sheba: Through the Desert in Search of the Legendary
Queen
Prologue
On a sleet-streaked November afternoon I
ducked into the New York Public Library, collapsed my
umbrella -- broken-spoked on the dash from the subway --
sloshed up a grand marble staircase, and turned down a dark
hallway leading to the Oriental Division. ("Oriental," in
the nineteenth century's world-view, meant anything to the
east of Greece, as in "We Three Kings of Orient Are . . .")
In the hallway, the division,s recent titles could be
accessed on two computer terminals glowing green on a table
to the right. To the left, shelves of black volumes recorded
older entries, typed on antique machines and even
handwritten. Both sources had pages of entries beginning:
"Queen of..."
Queen of Bubbles, Queen of Frogs. Queens of Sorrows,
Spies, the Swamp, Tears, Tomorrow, the Universe, Rage, and
Ruin.
But on this damp day, one entry shone, the one I was
looking for: the Queen of Sheba. Further crosschecking would
pull up hundreds of entries bearing on her life -- if she
did ever live -- and times.
I had no way of knowing it at the time, but the pursuit
of the queen of Sheba would take me from Canterbury
Cathedral to a Czech alchemist's tower. I would venture to
the Orient of old and to Jerusalem, the city where Sheba
appeared before King Solomon, a city so at the crux of
Western religion that it was long held to be the center of
the world.
Curiosity, that old cat-killer, would prod and beckon me
on, through the cobbled streets of ancient caravansaries,
through grassy green African highlands, across a stormy
Strait of Tears, and into the trackless red sands of the
Rubë al-Khali, the Empty Quarter of Arabia.
The desert, I've found, is a good place for the curious,
for even on a short walk you can expect the unexpected, a
glimpse of something you've never seen before, be it an
oddly striped caterpillar, a rare ghost flower or, as I once
found in California's Mojave, a barely tarnished fighter
plane abandoned since World War II. This really doesn't make
sense. One imagines the surprises of the world of nature and
of man to be hidden in remote alpine canyons and
mist-shrouded jungles. And certainly such places have their
share of the unexpected. But it's in the desert -- open,
apparently lifeless, with few places to conceal anything --
where secrets, perhaps the best secrets, are to be found. Or
may still lie buried.
On again, off again, for a decade and more, I would seek
Sheba in lands (like her?) exotic, sensuous, even sinister.
Would the mists of her myth dissolve, and a real queen of a
real country step forth? Or, upon investigation, might she
prove to be Sheba, Queen of Illusion? I had no idea. But on
a winter's day in New York, I scanned volume after worn
volume and was warmed by the promise of adventure offered by
Alexander Kinglake, a Victorian "traveling gent":
There comes a time for not dancing
quadrilles, not sitting in pews . . . and now my eyes
would see the Splendor and Havoc of the East. |
June 2001
Copyright © 2001 Nicholas Clapp
Nicholas
Clapp is both an award-winning filmmaker and a noted
lecturer on archaeology. His first book, The Road to
Ubar, was a New York Public Library "Book to Remember"
for 1999.
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